The market is currently dominated by technically produced and standardized wines. This is not surprising, as there is a significant demand for affordable wine, which often necessitates industrial production methods. At the same time, there is a growing desire for authentic wines that emerge from the creative interplay between the vineyard, vine, climate, and the winemaker's craftsmanship. We observe this development in the emerging natural wine scene, which exerts a growing appeal on wine enthusiasts seeking authenticity. However, the age-old term "Naturwein (natural wine)" should be considered beyond the current context, as it now carries a certain controversy and is often associated solely with alternative and unconventional styles. Yet, today, much like centuries ago, there exists a classic, traditional style that is also the result of a nature-centered, artisanal approach and yields authentic, terroir-driven, and clear wines (which we can also trace from our own wine archive dating back to 1934, before modern technology for vineyards and cellars existed). The distinction lies solely in the defined objective and interpretation of the terroir. A matter of style. But no matter what one personally prefers to drink (beauty is famously in the eye of the beholder), this development is undoubtedly remarkable! We would like to share our thoughts on this topic here. What does "authenticity" mean and how is it connected to the concept of "terroir"?

When it comes to wine, authenticity is of central importance.

Essentially, authenticity can only emerge from the close connection existing between the vineyard, the winemaker, and his craft. Authentic wine tells its own story and reflects the unique character of its terroir (more thoughts on that shortly). It captivates with its natural expressiveness and individuality, qualities that are homogenized and lost in industrially produced wine. However, its authenticity is not only grounded in a tangible origin. Such wine also reveals the beauty of imperfection rooted in nature and the artisanal process - a lively process that preserves the integrity of the vineyards, the wines, and the cultural traditions.

The Terroir.

Hardly any other word brings together so many factors into a single concept and idea as "terroir." Originally derived from French, the term means "region" or "territory" and generally refers to the complex interplay of soil, microclimate and terrain. Various factors such as temperature variations between day and night, precipitation, hours of sunlight, slope gradient, soil composition, -color, and -permeability all play a crucial role. Although terroir is most commonly associated exclusively with the soil and the climate, it actually encompasses much more.

If we consider terroir as the combination of soil and climate, the concept is relatively clear. However, terroir also encompasses local farming practices, history, culture, and the handed-down and continually refined craftsmanship. The winemaker influences terroir through a multitude of decisions (soil management, vine care, etc.) that must be made year after year based on weather and growth.

So, when we consider the choice of grape variety, the selection of seedlings (selection massale or clone-selection), and the methods of work (such as whether the vineyard is cultivated with or without a tractor), the term quickly becomes more complex. In a broader sense, terroir also includes the cellar and its unique microflora (yeasts, bacteria, etc.), processing techniques (pressing, fermentation, aging, sulfur use [Jura, Jerez ...] etc.), as well as the palates of those who accompany the wine during its creation. This makes the human the most important part of terroir. Thus, terroir is not an easily defined term and is often not clearly definable.

The importance of the soil.

Nothing is as important to us as the soil, as it forms the essential foundation for our vines. Unlike the human element, it is the "unchangeable" component of the terroir. The soil influences the flavor of the grapes in many ways. Healthy soil ensures adequate nutrient supply for the vines and supports their growth and development. It enables vines (roots), fungi (mycorrhizae), and microorganisms to work in harmony with the natural environment, thereby promoting the development of robust plants as well as aromatic and nutrient-rich grapes. For these very reasons, we follow the principles of regenerative agriculture. Simply put, this means that we pay special attention to the topsoil in managing our vineyards and follow a finely-tuned strategy. This strategy is primarily composed of compost management, cover cropping, and aeration (using plows and subsoilers). Healthy and vegetated topsoil promotes root growth, nutrient absorption, and water retention (1% more humus can store up to 430 m³ more water per hectare) while also creating a diverse habitat for insects, worms, and microorganisms, which in turn exert a positive influence on soil fertility. This creates an effective cycle that sustainably supports and continuously regenerates the health of our vineyards!

However, when talking about the concept of terroir we have to talk about the soil in its entirety. The topsoil mentioned above merely covers the underlying geology (bedrock, loess, gravel, etc.) and varies in thickness. Sometimes it is only a few centimeters before one encounters bare rock, such as in our terraces in Steinhaus. The vines use the soil as an anchor and as a nutrient and water reservoir. The invisible root system of the vines, which often has more mass than the vine itself, depends on the properties of the soil. The soil also influences the microclimate, which is important for the growth of the vines and the ripening of the grapes. Depending on its composition, soils can absorb, reflect, store, and release solar energy to varying degrees. Stony, heavy & dark soils like in Schenkenbichl need more solar energy to warm up, but can also store it longer. Light, bright & dry soils like in Thal, on the other hand, warm up faster but also cool down quickly.

In addition to living, fertile topsoil that contains sufficient essential nutrients like nitrogen and phosphorus, grapevines require other minerals that result directly from the weathering of rocks and vary in size and chemical composition. The three most important of these are potassium, magnesium, and calcium. All these elements play a crucial role in various physiological processes that support plant growth, development, and overall health, thereby indirectly influencing the flavor of the grapes through the soil. This brings us to a particularly interesting point:

Minerality!

We often perceive a "mineral" note, especially in conjunction with high acidity, when we imagine the rocky soil where the vines grow. However, the concept of "minerality" is not so easily explained. Based on this idea, we would have to assume that all wines are mineral, as every wine ultimately reflects the soil in which the vines grew, and roots absorb mineral nutrients from all types of soil. Even fine-grained soils like loess consist of weathered rock and should, therefore, produce even more intense minerality, right? After all, one might think that fine mineral particles are more easily absorbed by the plant than large pebbles or rocks. The common notion of "rock = mineral = minerality" is simply incorrect. The perception of minerality described above is likely more related to the sparseness of the soil and the associated availability of nutrients and water, to which the vine responds. A stressed vine on rocky and dry soil produces different grapes than the same vine would if it had "easier" growing conditions. Therefore, it is clear that authentic wine reflects the character of the soil on which it grows. However, one thing is certain: minerality is a highly subjective sensation that is difficult to define (and cannot be scientifically proven to this day). Ultimately, this is what makes the concept so special. It describes a feeling that a wine conveys to the drinker, giving it an identity that goes beyond the flavor expression of the grape variety. The term "minerality" is an attempt to put the tangible terroir in wine into words. It is fascinating when a wine evokes images in the mind that match the place where it was grown, and vice versa.

The Terroir in the air.

Another factor that can significantly influence the taste of wine and thus the perception of terroir is the scent of the surrounding air. The natural waxy layer (cuticle) that develops on the berries during the ripening process protects the grapes from moisture loss and external influences like fungal diseases. Since this wax layer is fat-soluble, it can also easily absorb volatile organic compounds from the surrounding air. Thus, scent compounds can penetrate the waxy layer of the grapes and be stored there. Whether it’s the spicy aroma of a forest, the smoke from bushfires, or a salty sea breeze, this "information" is transferred to the wines during maceration—the period when the juice is in contact with the skins, which in our case lasts up to 36 hours.

There is no doubt that yeasts also play a crucial role in releasing the inherent aromas of the berries. However, a detailed examination of their influence would exceed the scope of this article (we will address this topic in a separate piece). In the end, countless factors affect the flavor of the wine, making it one of the most fascinating beverages in the world.

From all these thoughts, a clearly defined goal emerges for us:

We aim to produce authentic, timeless, and artisanal wines that taste like Hiedler, the Kamptal, and the vintage. By "authentic," we mean the unique character of the Kamptal and thus our terroir, which we express in our wines. The term terroir, however, encompasses all the specific characteristics that distinguish not only the Kamptal but also us as winemakers. This connection is never replicable and ultimately makes our wines distinctive and personal.